Highlights of this adventure focus on the spectacles of sardine bait balls, aquatic and avairain wildlife feeding on the massive sardine shoals and baited shark dives in some of the most fabulous dive sites in the world.
The Sardine run - Days 2-6
Locals claim that as soon as the aloes bloom on the South Coast, the sardines will start to run. This is not strictly true as the sardines start their migration when the waters in the South Atlantic drop below a critical temperature. With global warming as the ocean temperatures rise there is a fear that the sardine run will cease to occur in the future. Despite the fact that this is one of nature’s great spectacles few paid the sardine run much attention for many years. When this spectacle happens the ocean bursts into a profusion of activity as hundreds, sometimes thousands of common dolphins hunt the sardines and whales seem to be everywhere. Cape Gannets cruise in flocks of several hundred above the sardines and dive like hailstones from 20m into the water to snatch their share of the silvery fish. At the end of a good day, they float helplessly on the water with their bellies so full they are unable to take off.
Deeper in the ocean, huge numbers of sardines form a bait ball to escape the sharks and dolphins. Sadly for the vulnerable fish this tactic does not always work because once the bait ball is formed, the sharks and dolphins swim through it repeatedly and often not a single sardine escapes their attention.
As divers, we will first approach the situation carefully and watch what is going on from the boat. Then we slide into the water and when a bait ball is formed or a large shoal of sardines approaches, we don equipment and watch the incredible scene from a depth of approximately 5-7m.
Then it's back on the boat and off to the next group of sardines. This can go on for hours or even the whole day with a short lunch break in between.
Typical Day at Coffee Bay
Breakfast is served at 7am and then we make our way along the picturesque coastline to the Hole in the Wall where we launch with a packed lunch to go in search of the best viewings.
We return to base no later than 16h00 and while our staff prepares the boat and equipment for the next day we head back to the hotel where we are at leisure until we meet for dinner.
Air Support
In order to maximise our chances of finding the sardines we will have an airplane for our sole use which will scout daily for signs of the sardines.
Baited Shark Dive at Protea Banks - Days 8-9
The Northern Pinnacles
Depth: 33-40m
This is an ideal area for nitrox diving and has a magnificant topography. This part of the reef is only dived in winter during our Raggie season, and only very few divemasters know how to dive the Northern Pinnacles properly.
Because most people don't even find this location, the reef is virtually untouched and undamaged. It has two large cave systems which are used by the Ragged Tooth Sharks as resting zones on their annual migration and congregation route. On a good day, we can encounter up to 200 sharks in an area smaller than half a rugby field.
We start our dive at the large cave, looking in from the top and observing Raggies interacting peacefully with each other. Often we find the caves so full of sharks that we can hardly see the bottom. We respect their resting zone by merely observing and not disturbing them. We then pass the tunnel which we can swim through if it is not occupied by sharks, swim past the coral garden and get to the second cave. This cave is also open on top and features several chambers, each one with a wide opening at the top ceiling. If there are no Raggies in the caves, it is rewarding to explore around in the chambers, looking for sharks' teeth which are generally plentiful. This is the only souvenir we allow the diver to remove from the reef. As spring goes into summer, large shoals of Hammerhead Sharks frequent this part of the reef. The best months to dive the Northern Pinnacles are June to November. It truly is the best dive on earth.
The Southern Pinnacles
Depth: 26-40m
This area is home to the Zambezi Shark (Bull Shark) which is what Protea Banks has initially become famous for. From Oct to May, some very large specimen can be encountered here. In the beginning of the Zambezi season, they tend to keep a safe distance from the divers which gets reduced as time goes by. Towards Easter, Zambies often get so inquisitive and used to encountering divers underwater, that they come really close - ideal for award winning photos.
Scalloped Hammerhead Sharks are also seen shoaling at this time. On a good dive several hundred can be seen in a single shoal. Hunting packs of Great Hammerheads curiously seek out the noise of the divers and Blacktips dart in and out of vision like a bunch of playful puppies.
We start the dive at the Southern Cave - buzzing with of all sorts of game and reef fish, often so thick that it is hard to see one's buddy. Thereafter we reach Kingfish Gully, an overhanging rock which is home to large shoals of Kingfish, Yellowtail, Kaakap, Sea Pike Tunny, Potato Bass and many more species.The current then takes us to a large sandy patch we call Sand Shark Gully. It lies at exactly 40m depth and is home of the Giant Guitar Shark. At times we see them lined up like planes at an airport, 50 to 60 of these magnificent creatures is not uncommon.
The best months to see Tiger Sharks are April and May, although we see Tiger Sharks right through the year.
Protea Banks has been rated by many divers from around the world as the best shark dive. Many divers are scared of sharks due to horror stories and myths created by the movie world, but their fears are totally unfounded. Sharks are intelligent animals, do not recognise us as a food source and generally tend to be shy and respectful towards the divers.
Dive at Aliwal Shoal - Day 10
Aliwal Shoal is better known than Protea Banks due to the fact that this reef is suitable for any level diver whereas Protea Banks is for experienced divers only. It became well known for Ragged-tooth sharks though there probably are fewer here than on Protea Banks and only occur in season.
Outside the reef Baited Dives attract huge numbers of Black Tip Sharks.
It is one hour’s drive from where we will be based to Umkomaas to dive this reef.
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